One of the most effective and accurate tools for shaping a profile on a compound curve is the scratch stock. This simple shop-made tool is just a stick of wood equipped with a profiled scraper. A convex curve on the end of the stick will allow the scratch stock to follow the contours of the table apron; a piece of thin steel from a card scraper or old handsaw works well for the cutter

Amana has a wide selection of router bits for shaping furniture moldings of different sizes. For a small box I suggest Amana Tool no.54137 for a base molding, no. 54187 for a trim molding above a row of drawers, and nos.54125 and 49509 for shaping the edge of a lid.

For an easy, beautiful finish for walnut I suggest a coat of wiping varnish followed by several coats of 1lb amber shellac. The oil in the wiping varnish will add depth and the shellac will warm up the cool colors of the walnut. I rub between coats with 0000 steel wool and apply a coat of wax over the final coat.

View Project

Most any crown molding profile can be shaped on a radius or gooseneck curve. Radius crown is typically laminated to avoid creating weak, short grain. The
curve of "S" curved, sometimes called gooseneck, molding is usually bandsawn from wide stock.

After creating the curve, the molding profile is shaped with router bits, shaper cutters, and/or carving gouges depending upon the size and complexity of the profile. I will be glad to help to determine the best approach, however, I'll need an accurate drawing of the molding profile.

Cove router bits use a bearing to guide the cut and shape one-quarter of a circle. If you want to shape a semi-circular cove you can use a core-box bit. Amana offers a wide assortment of core-box bits from 3/16" radius to 1-1/8" radius. To shape a larger cove you can combine the cuts from a core-box bit with the Amana Tool Crown Molding bit no.54414.

Begin by making several passes with the crown molding bit. This is a large bit so use a table-mounted router and make light passes. After reaching the required depth you can complete the sides of the cove with a large core-box bit such as Amana Tool no.45949.

I suggest Amana Tool Reverse Curve router bit #49555 for the table that you are building. Like the Torus router bit #49553 it has a small amount of undercut. Also, many dressing tables have carved corners, sometimes referred to as an indented corner, and #49555 is an appropriate profile when you plan to add this detail.

Complex moldings are typically made by combining simple profiles such as coves, roundovers, ogees, etc. You can probably create a close reproduction of the molding by using three separate bits to shape two strips of molding. After shaping stack the molding to create the finished profile.

Recommended router bits for this project.
Amana Tool 49094 & 49110 - Cove router bits
Amana Tool 49610 - Beading router bit

Click here to view Illustration of a custom molding

The piecrust pattern is a beautiful profile found on the edges of many 18th century tea tables. Because the piecrust has sharp, distinctive inside corners it cannot be created with a router. A true piecrust must be carved.
However, you can create a dished tabletop with a router. Although it isn't as distinctive as a piecrust, a dished top is still very attractive. I've illustrated the router bits required for a dished top. For information on constructing a router jig please look at pages 143-144 of my book The Complete Illustrated Guide To Shaping Wood.

Recommended router bits for this project.
Amana Tool 45505 - Mortising router bit
Amana Tool 45904 - Core box router bit
Amana Tool 49701 - Round over router bit


Click here to view Illustration of a Dish Top

Yes, my book The Complete Illustrated Guide To Shaping Wood shows a number of different methods for shaping both curved and straight moldings. Amana and I have also teamed up to create many new profiles that are not available elsewhere. For example, we recently added a number of table edge profile bits. In the coming months we'll be adding more bits to the line.

Click here to view Table Edges designed by Lonnie Bird

Crown moldings provide a visual terminus at the top of a room or a cabinet. Most furniture crown moldings are different than architectural crowns because they can be viewed from the top of the case to which they are applied. This is a very small case that requires a small crown molding. It's typical of a complex molding that is shaped with three separate bits.

Amana Tool no.51569
Amana Tool no.49118
Amana Tool no.49602

View illustration

For safety and accuracy shape a piece of stock at least six inches wide and rip the molding free after shaping. This will safely distance your hands from the spinning bits.

You can laminate the curve however, the easiest method for making a curved molding is to bandsaw the curve and shape it afterwards. Although a laminate will be stronger strength is not critical because the molding is non-structural.

Start by using a compass to draw the radius of the curve on 1/4" plywood. If your compass is not large enough make a simple trammel with a stick. Drive a nail in one end of the stick for a pivot point. On the opposite end drill a small hole for a pencil.

Next, bandsaw the curve and smooth the edges of the plywood. It's important that the curve is free of bumps or dips; it will serve as both a pattern for tracing the stock and a template for smoothing the stock.

Trace the pattern onto the workpiece and carefully bandsaw the curve. Now fasten the pattern to the workpiece to serve as a template for flush trimming. Flush trimming will quickly remove the bandsaw marks and smooth the curve. Finally, shape the profile along both edges of the molding.

You can shape large, complex moldings with your router by combining the profiles from several bits. I begin by drawing a sketch of the molding then I break it down into simple profiles. After routing the shapes on separate
pieces of stock I stack the layers to create the molding.

Click here to view an example of a mantle shelf; you can learn more on this technique in my book "The Complete Illustrated Guide To Shaping Wood".

You can shape large, complex moldings with your router by combining the profiles from several bits. I begin by drawing a sketch of the molding then I break it down into simple profiles. After routing the shapes on separate pieces of stock I stack the layers to create the molding.

Click here to view an example of a mantle shelf; you can learn more on this technique in my book "The Complete Illustrated Guide To Shaping Wood".

You could create the curve using a bent lamination or you could saw the curve from solid stock. With either method it's best to shape the molding profile after the curve is created. Sawing a curve creates weak "short grain". This method may not be practical depending on the radius of the curve and the length of the molding. To make a bent lamination you'll need to first construct a bending form with a radius that matches the top to which the molding will be applied. If possible, the easiest method is to shape the molding profile on the edge of the curved top.