Saw Blades, Router Bits and Shaper Cutters |
| Woodworking Tips and Techniques by Lonnie Bird |
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Shelf Profile
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What profile do you use to dress up the edges of shelves on fine furniture?
-Larry G.
Plymouth Meeting, PA
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Lonnie
replies:
Amana offers a double bead furniture profile router bit no. 54291 designed especially for the edges of shelves. You can find it along with other fine furniture profile bits I designed with Amana Tool.
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Roll Top Desk
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I am just getting into woodworking and I've started a rolltop desk. I just received your Tambour bit set and am having a little trouble. My router
table lacks the precision stuff so setting the height of the bit is difficult and getting the amount to take out on the first cuts have been difficult. For instance how wide should the bead be to fit properly in the groove?
If you could give me a few remedial pointers I would be forever in your debt. I am jazzed about doing this rather than buying a premade.
-Loren W.
East Amherst , NY
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Lonnie
replies:
The ball-and-socket joint should pivot freely so that the completed tambour will slide smoothly in the groove. The "ball" is shaped by making cuts from both faces of the stock. Pushing the router table fence back and exposing more of the router
bit will reduce the size of the ball.
The best method for sizing the ball is to use a test piece of stock and fit it into the socket. Gradually push the fence back
and continue testing the fit until the two parts pivot freely. Then shape the tambour stock.
View Tambour product page
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Saw Blade for Scarf Joints?
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I'll be hand selecting quartersawn (or close to it) Pine from a lumber yard. I'll be ripping it into 3/4" x 1" longerons. I'll then be making scarf glue joints (1:15) to get the length required. Finally, cross and mitre cutting the above to make the "ladder" framework where required.
I'd rather not have to use a jointer, thicknesser, or finisher to smooth out the saw cuts to make good glue joints.
I know of the Glue Line Rip Blade - I assume that that's best blade for my application but which blade(s) would be the best for "Glue Line" crosscuts and mitres.
I'll be working in Pine on a tablesaw.
-Norm C.
Mareeba, Australia
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Lonnie
replies:
Amana's Glue Line Rip blade no.610301 is your best choice for the scarf joints. The thick plate and triple-chip grind creates an incredibly smooth surface that is ready for gluing.
For the crosscuts and miters, I recommend the Amana Tool no.610800 Trim blade. The 10 degree hook, alternate top bevel (ATB) tooth grind will produce excellent cuts across the grain.
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Carbide -vs- Steel
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I've heard that carbide is more durable than steel. How can I identify carbide tools when comparing to steel?
-Hady
MUSCAT, OM
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Lonnie
replies:
Carbide has all but replaced steel tooling in recent years. Carbide is much harder than steel and much more resistant to heat. Although a carbide-tipped tool is more expensive than a comparable tool which has steel cutting edges, carbide is more economical because it lasts much longer.
When comparing carbide tools to steel, you'll see that carbide is a thick, polished cutting surface which has been brazed to a steel body.
Among carbide-tipped tools, there is a large difference in quality between brands. For example, Amana uses a fine micro-grain carbide; router bit shanks are precisely machined to size for a secure fit in the router collet and saw blades are dynamically balanced and tensioned. These differences cannot be seen through casual observation but the difference is easily seen in the quality and smoothness of the cut.
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Elliptical cove profile
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I want to match the trim around the doors to the trim around the inside of a Pella window. All the cove molding available is 3/4 x 3/4. My cove in the Pella windows is about 1"-1 1/8". What router bit can I use to make these pieces?
-Roland S.
Lakewood, CO
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Lonnie
replies:
Most cove router bits shape a cove which is based upon a circle. To shape an elliptical cove on stock measuring 3/4" x 1" you can use Amana Tool no.49216. This bit is designed to shape a base molding for large casework. However, if you use just a portion of the bit profile you can shape the cove for the window trim.
View Illustration
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Bits for Mortises
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What bits would you recommend for plunge routing mortises, using a hand held router.
-Arvind B.
Miami,FL
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Lonnie
replies:
The Amana A-Max straight bits, such as no.45415 cut super clean and the long-wearing carbide will last through many mortises before it requires sharpening. Remember to always use the shortest bit possible. This will limit vibration and strain on the bit.
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Feed Rate?
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Lonnie could you help us out with some shaper feed speeds and feeder speed feeds. I am doing some doors in hickory, and I am experiencing quite a bit of chipping in the profile edge of the rails and stiles. I am using a Powermatic shaper at 7000 RPM, brand new cutters, and I am feeding at 13 FPM. That is the slowest speed on the feeder. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Tommy S.
South Wales, NY
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Lonnie
replies:
Hickory is a very tough, springy wood which is difficult to shape with power tools. But you can create a smooth surface if you increase the spindle speed and make several light passes rather than one or two heavy ones. You may even have to skip the power feeder and hand feed the stock at a slower feed rate.
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Amana stub spindle & cope cutter door system?
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Can you tell me what minimum rpm is suggested for the above system? I have a 1-1/2 hp shaper with a ½" dia. router collet, however, the maximum rpm is
9000. Is it true that the quality of the cut may suffer at this slow speed? I have difficulty finding a stub spindle/cutter arrangement for this shaper to make long tenons. Your answer or suggestion will be appreciated.
-Tommy S.
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Lonnie
replies:
I have used large diameter router bits on a shaper and they work quite well. You may need to reduce the feed rate somewhat; this will have the same affect as a higher RPM.
As you shape, examine the surface quality of the cut. If the surface is burned, increase the feed rate or lower the RPM. On the other hand, if the surface appears to have a "washboard" pattern, increase the RPM (just don't exceed the recommended maximum rpm). If the machine speed is at the maximum, lower the feed rate.
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| Bullnose Profile for Stair Treads |
Will a 3hp. router turn a bullnose bit using one and a eight inch old haed pine. Are should a 3hp. shapper be used. We bullnose the outer edge of the treads.
-Paul D.
Melville, LA
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Lonnie
replies:
A 3HP router has the power to easily shape a bullnose profile on 1-1/8" stock. However, if you're making production runs a shaper would be a better option. In a production setting, the universal motor in a router will typically overheat and shut down when making numerous large cuts. However, shapers use an induction type motor which is better suited for large, heavy cuts over an extended period.
Regardless of which machine you choose keep in mind that the surface quality may suffer when making a heavy cut on dense, brittle stock such as old growth heart pine. I suggest that you experiment with two passes with the second pass being the lighter of the two.
View our Bullnose Router Bits
View our Bullnose Shaper Cutters
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| Router Bit Quality |
What are the differences between Amana and Timberline bits?
- Jack D.
New Mills, NB
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Lonnie
replies:
Amana Tool has been making router bits and saw blades for Industry for 35 years and all of their tools meet the highest standards for quality. The Timberline series of router bits are a less-expensive alternative for woodworkers who use the bits only occasionally.
However, the Timberline bits are a great value. Like more expensive bits, the Timberline router bits are turned from solid tool-steel and incorporate an anti-kickback cutting design. Additionally, most of the Timberline profile bits feature a shear angle, and multi-axis grinding for super smooth cuts. In order to reduce costs, the carbide on Timberline bits is not as thick as the carbide on the Amana line. This means that you cannot sharpen the bits as many times. For many woodworkers, that is not an issue because they will not sharpen a router bit often enough to wear it out anyway.
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| V Grooves |
We have heard of a circular saw blade that will cut v grooves into our panaling but cant seem to find anything other than router bits to do this with. Can you tell us where we can find a saw blade to cut v grooves? We would like to attach it to a table saw and run the panaling through the table saw.
- Robert H.
Columbia, SC
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Lonnie
replies:
I suggest that you use a tablesaw molding head. Most have an assortment of cutter profile including a vee cutter.
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| Vertical log planks in house |
I'm about to start erecting a house built something like the Norway stave churches with 4 inch thick by about 12 inch sawn planks set vertically into a modified timber frame. Seems like a good idea to groove the the sides and spline them together with about a 3/4 inch board about 3 in. wide spline. What's the best way to cut this groove or dado with a tool that's portable and can be used on the wood. I've thought about a chainsaw which seems fairly inaccurate, a router, several blades stacked on a circular saw and maybe one of those expensive Makita groove cutter type machines? Any suggestions or advice will be greatly appreciated.
- John S.
Lost Creek, WV
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Lonnie
replies:
I would use a router and a solid carbide down-cut spiral straight bit no.46238. The spiral bit will have less feed resistance which you'll appreciate with such a large amount of work.
Secure a straightedge to the work and guide the router by the base. For greater accuracy, I'd also replace the round base with one that is rectangular in shape.
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| Gooseneck Molding |
In your book "The Complete Illustrated Guide to Shaping Wood" you demonstrate shaping a gooseneck molding with a shaper cutter. Is this cutter
available?
- Scott M.
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Lonnie
replies:
The cutter that you're referring to is a custom shaper cutterhead. I supplied the drawing and the manufacturer made the cutterhead to match. As you might imagine, custom cutterheads are very expensive; unless you're running a furniture shop and building furniture full-time the cost of custom tooling, such as router bits and shaper cutters, is just too prohibitive.
A less-expensive alternative is to use several standard shaper cutters or router bits and combine them to create the profile. In fact, I illustrate this method in my book as well. And Amana sells Gooseneck Molding Bits and the process is illustrated in my Q&A column on this website under "Routing with Templates", "Gooseneck Molding".
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| Wooden Box |
I am making a wooden box out of Gabon Ebony solid - 4-1/2" x 12" x 1-3/4" high. I am making the box by cutting the "top" and "bottom" off of a solid piece of stock and then hollowing the interior with a jigsaw leaving a wall thickness of approximately 1/2". The wall is rough from the jigsaw and not very true and so I trim it with an over-arm type router with a table that moves on an x, y and z axis.
What bit and speed should I use to trim the box interior? Also if I want to mill out the center of the box in lieu of cutting it out with the jig saw, what bit and speed would should I use? The ebony is very brash and I have experienced a lot of failure trying to use a spiral up cut bit. Help Please
- David W.
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Lonnie
replies:
Without seeing the results of the cut, I suspect that you're experiencing chatter as a result of the exceedingly hard, brittle ebony and the relatively thin walls of the box. The hardness, or density, of a wood is directly related to it's specific gravity. For example, red oak, a common native hardwood known for it's hardness, has a specific gravity of approximately .65. In comparison, ebony has a specific gravity of 1.12. The extremely high degree of hardness alone makes this beautiful wood difficult to machine. Also, as they spin and cut, even the best quality router bits can cause the workpiece to vibrate, or "chatter" if certain conditions exist in the setup.For example, a very thin workpiece, a heavy cut, extremely dense stock, and/or a dull bit can all cause chatter and a rough finished surface.
Here are a few suggestions for improving the quality of the cut:
-Add mass. Even though you're working a specie of wood with inherent mass, the walls of the box, at 1/2", are thin and unsupported. I suspect that the clamp in the overarm router that you're now using only supports the box near the base. As a result, the thin walls vibrate when they come in contact with the spinning bit.
If possible, shape a thicker piece of stock and cut it to final size after the routing process is complete. For example, to make a narrow molding I shape a wide board and rip the molding profile free after shaping. Because of the high cost of ebony this may not possible or practical an so you might try constructing a jig which supports the box on all four sides. By securing the workpiece in a large, heavy jig, you, in effect, are adding mass to the work which can dramatically improve the quality of the cut.
-Reduce the size of the cut. For example, when flush trimming I remove just enough stock with the router to smooth away the saw marks; no more than 1/16" and sometimes less. Because of the dense stock and the thin wall of the box I would reduce the cut to a bare minimum.
-Try a large, down-cut spiral bit. As the name implies, up-cut bits lift the chips up and out of the cut which makes them a good choice for cutting mortises. However, on the brittle stock of the box you're making this can create a rough top surface. A down-cut bit will leave the top surface smoother but you'll need to stop periodically and clean the shavings from the box interior. And a large diameter bit, such as Amana no.46209, will be less prone to deflection and chatter than a smaller bit.
-Use a very sharp bit. Although this seems obvious, keep in mind that the harder the wood, the sharper the tool needs to be. A blade or bit that has a small amount of edge wear from hours of use may work fine on less dense hardwoods such as cherry or oak. But ebony requires a very sharp edge for a smooth cut. It may be time to replace the bit.
-Use a high router RPM. Use a speed of at least 18,000 RPM and feed the bit slowly. Watch for signs of overheating.
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| Quality of Amana
Tool® Saw Blades |
Are Amana Tool® saw blades as good
as the Forrest saw blades?
- Clarence M.
Newberry, FL
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Lonnie
replies:
In my own shop as well as here at my school I use the Amana
Prestige exclusively. Here's why: The thick (.102") plate which forms the body
of the Prestige stays flat and ensures straight rips and precise, absolutely
square crosscuts. The D-10 carbide tips are thick, too, which allows for repeated
sharpening a long saw blade life. While some saw blade manufacturers boast a
runout of .001" the
Prestige has a much tighter tolerance of 1/10,000", on all axis!
All saws heat up during cutting and expand. Unlike the laser-cut expansion joints,
the copper-plugged expansion joints on the Prestige keep the blade flat as it
heats up while reducing noise to a minimum.
With the Amana Prestige I don't have to change from a rip blade to a crosscut
blade and back again. This one blade stays on my tablesaw continually because
it both rips and crosscuts beautifully. The 20 degree top bevel ensures a silky
smooth crosscut every time, regardless of the type of wood. In fact, I even use
the Prestige to cut birch veneer plywood with no splintering, even on the underside
of the cut.
The Prestige offers the best in quality and value.
View Prestige Saw Blades Now
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| Roll Top Desk |
Will the #54314 tambour router bit set keep a sharp edge in red oak ?
- Chuck T.
Hamilton, MO
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Lonnie
replies:
Absolutely. All Amana router bits, including the new Amana Tambour bit set no.54314, have high-quality carbide tips; some small bits, such as #54312 in the set, are solid carbide. Carbide is very hard, much harder than red oak, and ensures that cutting edge will last a long time. In fact, you can shape the tambours for many roll top desks before the cutting edge begins to show signs of wear.
All Amana router bits, saw blades and shaper cutters are industrial quality and are, in fact, used in production situations where they subjected to heavy usage in a variety of hard, abrasive materials such as particleboard and melamine.
Amana uses only the finest materials for their tools and they have a strict quality control system. Here are a few of the items that are checked before you receive your tools:
-Concentricity
-Runout
-Clearance Angles
-Carbide & Steel Integrity
-Ball Bearing Geometry
-Brazing
-Grinding
-Bore & Shank Diameters
-Balance
Also, I use Amana products exclusively in my own shop and woodworking school and so I can personally attest to the quality of the tools and the longevity of the cutting edges.
Having said that, it is important to realize that all cutting tools eventually wear and need re-sharpening. When a tool has excessive feed resistance or scorches the wood it may be a sign that it is time to have the tool sharpened. (It could also be a sign that the cut is too heavy, the feed rate is too slow, or the router speed is too high.) Because modern tools use complex geometry on the edges, I don't recommend that you sharpen or touch up the tools yourself. You may do more harm than good. Instead, I recommend that you take the tool to a reputable sharpening shop. They have the knowledge and equipment to sharpen the tool properly and restore the edge.
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| Router Bit for Mortising |
I am looking to mortise doors for mortise dead locks 2 1/2" deep and 3" long. Need a fast reliable way to do this repeative job rather than drilling a serious of 3/4" holes and cleaning them out with a chisle.
- Joe D.
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Lonnie
replies:
I suggest that you use the Amana Tool Stagger Tooth Plunge Cutting bit no.51313. Used along with a heavy duty plunge router this bit will quickly cut to the depth that you need. The stagger tooth design combines the speed and chip clearance of a single-flute bit with the finish of a double-flute bit. |
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| Plantation Shutters |
We manufacture louvered shutters and the cleaner the saw cuts the better the shutters look. When I crosscut the material on a table saw I get a super clean cut...no tear out...excellent cut. However, I've recently switched to a saw that holds the workpiece stationary as the blade comes through cutting the material, and exits the material. The cut is not as smooth as what was cut with the table saw...same blade and same height was used on both as far as the material entering the blade. Any ideas as to why?
- David
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Lonnie
replies:
The surface quality of a cut is affected by a number of things such as the number of teeth on the blade, the tooth geometry, the speed of the saw and the feed rate.
Because you're using the same blade you expect to have the same quality of cut with each of the two machines which, of course, is within reason. Here are a few things to consider:
1.Feed rate--the new saw may be feeding the blade through the material at a faster rate than you used previously. Feed rate has a direct affect on the surface quality. A faster feed rate causes each tooth to take a larger "bite" which results in a coarser surface.
If possible, slow down the feed rate and/or switch to a blade with a greater number of teeth. I've had excellent results with the
Amana #610801 Fine Cut-Off Saw Blade
2. Arbor runout--the new machine may have more runout than the old one. Even a small degree of runout can affect the surface quality. You can check the arbor and flange runout with a dial indicator.
3. Stock support--to avoid splintering and tear out when crosscutting it is important to support the stock on the surface where the blade exits the cut.
The best cuts are achieved when the stock is completely supported right up to the teeth of the blade. I do this by fastening an auxiliary wood fence to the miter saw and a zero clearance insert on the tablesaw. The new saw may not be providing sufficient stock support for the fine work that you're creating in your shop. |
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| Rocking Horse |
I purchased an Amana Finger Joint router bit. I'm having trouble setting up the bit so the joint mate properly. The wood is slightly over 3/4"(0.823). Can you give me some tips on the number of shims,etc.
- Bob T.
Los Angeles, CA
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Lonnie
replies:
The Finger Joint Router Bit is designed to cut adjoining fingers on the ends of stock to create long-grain glue surface area. It will cut finger joints on stock from 7/16" to 1-3/8" in thickness.
The bit uses five narrow cutters plus one wide abutting-edge cutter. When setting up the bit the height is important to ensure that the two halves of the joint align. The space created by the abutting cutter must equal the large finger on the adjoining piece. This is simply a matter of fine-tuning the height of the bit and making a few test cuts. As you can imagine, this step is much easier with a router lift that has a fine height adjustment screw for setting the height.
In order to cut stock less than 1-3/16" in thickness one or more of the cutters must be removed from the stack. Regardless if one finger cutter is used or all five are used the abutting cutter must always be used to cut the large space at the edge of the stock.
The bit uses a spacer and brass shims between each cutter. When making adjustments, always use the spacer and shims between each cutter. Once you sharpen the bit you may need to remove a brass shim from each space in order to tighten the joint.
There are five "ranges" of thickness that can be cut with the bit:
--One finger--7/16" to 10/16"
--Two fingers--10/16" to 13/16"
--Three fingers--13/16" to 16/16" (1")
--Four fingers--1" to 1-3/16"
--Five fingers--1-3/16" to 1-6/16"
When using less than five fingers, use the steel spacers to fill the arbor before installing the arbor nut.
View Finger Joint Illustration
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| Roll Top Tambour with your 3-bit Tambour Door Set |
What is the suggested height of the bit above the table top for "bit #2, that which cuts the round slot in the bottom of the slat? I'm coming upwith about 5/16"? Does that sound right?
- Tom S.
Dahlonega, GA
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Lonnie
replies:
The socket bit shapes the socket as well as the rounded shoulders that flank the socket. The height of the bit should be approximately 3/8". If the bit is too low the shoulders will not be sufficiently rounded so that the tambour can flex. If the bit is too high it will remove an excessive amount of wood. As with most router operations I test the set-up with sample stock and make necessary adjustments before shaping the actual workpiece.
View Tambour Illustration |
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| How to build a roll top desk? |
I am ordering a set of your new tambour door router bits and I'm planning on starting a rolltop desk soon. Do you have any tips for
shaping and installing the rolltop?
- Bob
Buffalo, NY
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Lonnie
replies:
My newest set of router bits allows you to construct a tambour without using cloth or wire to hold the slats. Instead, the slats use a flexible, interlocking ball-and-socket joint and simply slide together after shaping.
The set consists of three bits: the first shapes the face of the tambours along with the ball, the second shapes the socket, and the third bit shapes a roundover on the tambour end.
The set is really easy to use but there are a few tips that will make shaping smooth and trouble-free:
--Begin by milling the stock wide enough to create two tambour slats; after shaping rip the two apart. This method will add additional mass and provide room to position a push stick.
--Use featherboards to hold the stock firmly to the fence of the router table while shaping.
--Rip a shallow groove along the edge of each slat before shaping the socket. This will remove much of the waste and reduce strain on both the router and the bit.
--Shape a socket first so that you can test the fit of the ball and make any necessary adjustments.
If you have further questions please feel free to contact us. And we would certainly enjoy seeing a photo of your desk once it's completed.
Click here to view Amana's New Tambour Router Bit Set
Set Includes:
1. Step by Step Full Color Instructions on How to make Breadbox by Lonnie Bird
2. Step by Step Full Color Instructions on Making a Tambour Door
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| Dovetails? |
In your dovetail DVD, you use a router to remove waste between the pins on the pin board. What are the Amana part numbers for that setup? My Amana dealer locally did not have the parts in stock. I believe there is a collar as well as a bearing for the template.
Thanks.
- Tom S.
Humble , TX
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Lonnie
Bird replies:
I use Amana Tool dovetail router bit #45852. This bit cuts a 3/4" diameter, 14 degree dovetail.
The upper ball bearing allows you to use the bit with jigs.
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| Built-in Bookcase |
A question relative to fluted columns. I have been making a built-in book case and have planned on fluted columns for it. Have you written an article in Fine Woodworking for this which explains the best methods to make the flutes in a consistent manner? Is there a preferred router bit? And should it be done on the router table or with a router and guide system?
- Don M.
Flagstaff , AZ
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Lonnie
replies:
Fluted columns and pilasters are one of my favorite decorative features. They are easy to make and can be used to add detail to a room in your home, a bookcase, a piece of fine furniture (such as my recently completed corner cupboard in the photo), or even the stiles on kitchen cabinets. Flutes for columns and pilasters can easily be cut with a router. You can use a specialized bit, such as Amana Tool no.54215 or you can choose to use a core box bit such as Amana Tool no. 45910. Amana makes a broad selection of core box bits which can be found on page 37 of their latest catalog.
To cut the flutes you can use a hand-held router and guide but unless the workpiece is extremely large, such as an architectural pilaster, I prefer to use a table-mounted router.
Before I begin cutting I draw the flutes full-size to determine the flute radius. I like to look at previous work for inspiration. For example, fluted columns and pilasters can be traced back to ancient Greek and Roman Architecture, and centuries later, to Colonial American furniture and architecture. If you look closely at most old examples, you'll see that the space between each flute is smaller than the flute itself. By making a drawing of the pilaster I'm easily able to choose the flute size, spacing and number that pleases me.
Setting up the router table to cut flutes is actually quite easy. I use a set up piece in poplar and test each cut before making the actual cut on the workpiece. This way I can make minor adjustments to the flute spacing if necessary. Also, I begin by making the flutes in the center of a pilaster and then work outward toward the edges. If there are an odd number of flutes I cut the center flute first. This way, minor variations in spacing will be located toward the outer edge where it will not be noticed. Also, because the flutes are symmetrical, each set-up can be used twice.
The flutes can be cut the entire length of the workpiece or you can stop them at each end. To stop the flutes you can clamp stop blocks on the infeed and outfeed fences or you can feed the work to a mark on the fence.
View Detailed Illustration
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| Mission Style & Shaker Doors? |
Would you please explain the differences between shaker style doors and mission style doors? Are they both basically tongue and groove joints?
- Steve S.
Boulder Creek , CA
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Lonnie
replies:
The Mission Style door making router bits #55438 create a square-edged frame that follows the simple lines of that style of furniture. The Shaker style, Amana Tool #54133 and 55426, use a "thumbnail" profile along the edges of the door frame. The Shaker style panel has a short, somewhat steep bevel which is often found on Shaker doors of the period. |
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| Hardware for the Pennsylvania Secretary |
I am building the pennsylvania sceretary from fww. Do you have a list of the hardware you used? I see you ordered the undrilled hinges from ball and ball, do you have number. Also Amana tools offers a small raised panel bit would that bit work for the small door in the gallery section. thanks for your help, as a fellow woodworkng instructor I really appreciate the job you do.
- Mike
Reidsville, NC
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Lonnie
replies:
You can order the secretary hardware directly from Ball & Ball, 1-800-257-3711. Just ask for the secretary hardware kit. The door panel in the gallery can be shaped with Amana Tool no.54116. We've also developed a number of new bits that you may want to use with your teaching such as the Tambour Door Bit Set. This unique set allows you to make tambours without cloth or glue. Also, we have several new furniture profile router bits including Amana Tool no.49216, which is the base molding for the secretary.
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| How to make the base molding on a Pennsylvania Secretary |
Could you please tell me how the base molding is made for the secretary? Which router bits need to be purchased etc ?
- Matt W.
Kutztown, PA
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Lonnie
replies:
The base molding is a new profile that we're now offering at Amana Tool. It is Amana Tool Base Molding Router Bit no.49216. To make the molding, I mill the stock approximately six inches wide, shape the profile on both edges, and then rip the molding free. The extra width enables me to position my hands a safe distance from the spinning bit. When ripping the molding I use the Amana Prestige sawblade because it leaves a smooth surface on the back of the molding which enables me to create a seamless fit when I apply the molding to the case.
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| Stub Spindle |
In The Shaper Book you talk about a stub spindle for doing full length tenons on cope & stick doors. I am drawing plans for a large book case with doors and would like to use this. However, powermatic does not make a stub spindle for the 25A shaper. Do you have any sketches or photos of this type of spindle so that I can provide a local machine shop with some details to make one, or do you have any other suggestions.
- Phil
Wakefield, MA
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Lonnie
replies:
The stub spindle and cope cutter is a concept that has been around for quite some time. Typically shaper spindles are threaded externally and the cutters are secured with a nut. However, the stub spindle is threaded internally; the top of the cutter is counter-bored and secured with a cap screw. This design allows woodworkers to cope tenons of any length when making doors. Unfortunately shaper manufacturers no longer offer stub spindles for their machines.
The good news is that Amana Tool is now making stub spindles for the router. There are three sets available; one for cabinet doors, one for architectural entry doors, and a third set for constructing screen doors. These unique sets allow you to cope tenons of any length so that you can make doors with strong mortise-and-tenon construction.
Click here to view the new stub spindle for routers.
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| Differences between stile and rail shaper cutter sets? |
Could you explain the difference between the rail and stile cutters SC440 and SC444. When is each used? similarities? differences?
- Bill M.
McGregor, ON
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Lonnie
replies:
Shaper Cutter Set SC440 and SC444 are both stile-and-rail door cutter sets for use on a shaper. Both are designed for use with 3/4" thick stock material. The differences are the decorative profiles. SC440 creates a roundover profile which is sometimes referred to as a "thumbnail". SC444 creates an ogee or reverse curve. Also, notice that set SC444 creates the ogee on both faces of the stock while SC440 shapes the profile on the outside face only.
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| Can I used a Molding Head on a table mounted router? |
I would like to use my Porter Cable 3 1/4 HP variable speed router with a 3 inch molding head to produce a varation of moldings (table mounted). I can make an adapter to handle the 1 inch diameter molding head which will fit the 1/2 inch router collet. The minimum speed of the router is about 10,000 RPM.
In your opinion is this a reasonable approach? Is the 10,000 RPM speed too high or should it be around 5,000 to 7,000 RPM? Would this be an unsafe setup?
- Bill
Chester, NJ
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Lonnie
replies:
I strongly recommend that you do not use a molding head in a router. All cutting tools, such as router bits, shaper cutters, and sawblades, are engineered for a use in specific machines. Using a cutting tool in a machine other than the one for which it is designed could possibly lead to a serious personal injury.
Besides, molding heads are very limited in the profiles which they can produce. Instead, why not invest in an assortment of router bits? Molding heads came on to the scene in the days when the selection of router bits was somewhat limited. Today there is a wider variety of router bit profiles than ever before. For example, in addition to the ogee and round over router bits that have always been available, you can now shape large moldings and raised panels for doors with your router. You can't do that with a molding head.
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| Router Bit RPM & Safety |
Why is the maximum speed for a 45 degree lock mitre router bit 18,000 rpm? I got this Amana Tool bit for my birthday and do not have a variable speed router. Mine is an older Porter Cable with 23,000 fixed rpm. Thank you for your help.
- Karen
Des Moines, IA
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Lonnie
replies:
Maximum speed limits on router bits are for your personal safety.
Over the past twenty years there has been a dramatic increase in the variety of router bit profiles. As a result, you can now shape large profiles with a router that once required an expensive shaper. However, large diameter bits have a much higher rim speed than smaller bits when run at the same RPM. Although the basic concept of the router has not changed since its inception, today's routers have several features that older machines lack, such as soft start and variable speed, which enable them to safely spin large diameter bits. Also, keep in mind that many bits, such as the lock miter bit, are limited to use in a table-mounted router and should never be used in a hand-held router. This is also for your safety.
By purchasing a large variable speed router and mounting it in a table with a fence, you'll have, in effect, a small versatile shaper which will allow you to shape raised panels for doors (Amana Tool no.54117), create both curved and straight moldings(Amana Tool no.54260), and make complex joints such as the lock miter (Amana Tool no.55390).
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| Ripping thick stock |
I was ripping 3" red oak with a another manufacturer's 10", 50 tooth combination blade. The ripping was going slow and what appeared to be just another saw cut. When done my small shop was loaded with smoke with was coming from the saw cabinet. I open the saw door and was shocked that it was solid smoke. I felt the motor and it seemed to be cool enough and the belts seemed to be tight enough. The saw blade bore no burn marks. I let the saw discharge the smoke, let it set and started to cut red oak again, only this time it was a 1" cut. No smoke. Is my blade a problem? I do not want to switch to a thin kerf blade as past experience with thin kerks left the cut out of whack. Do you feel that a Amanda blade would be a better choice or would the same happen? I was told to buy a band saw, and would love one but I am still working full time and just do not the available time to enjoy all the tools that I would love to have. Thank you for whatever advice you can give me on this perplexing situation.
- Ron
Elmhurst, IL
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Lonnie
replies:
The problem is that there are too many teeth in contact with the stock. This creates a lot of friction and heat. Combination blades, such as the Amana Prestige, are great all purpose blades. I keep one on my tablesaw for almost all rips and crosscuts. However, most of the time I'm ripping stock that is 1-1/2" or less in thickness.
When ripping three inch thick hardwood I suggest that you switch to using the Amana Tool heavy duty rip blade no.710200. With just twenty teeth, you'll find this special purpose rip blade to be much more efficient and have less feed resistance than a fifty tooth combination blade. Also, because there are fewer teeth, the gullets are larger and can more easily remove the sawdust from the kerf.
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| Trimming Veneer |
I am applying PSA (Pressure-sensitive
adhesive) walnut veneer to the back of dining-room chairs. Can
I use an Amana Tool router bit to trim the veneer? Perhaps 46300?
- Andrew M.
Shreveport, LA
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Lonnie
replies:
To trim the veneer I suggest Amana
Tool Laminate Trim
Router Bit #47105. This is
a 1/4" diameter,
down-cut bit. The down-cutting action will push the veneer toward the substrate
rather than lift it.
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| Laminate Countertops |
How do they make beveled edge countertops
what bits do they use?
- Dave G.
Victoria, BC
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Lonnie
replies:
A plastic laminate countertop can be edged with plastic laminate or solid
wood. After the laminate is applied to the countertop the excess is trimmed
flush to the edge. You can trim it flush and bevel it in one easy step
with
Amana Tool Bevel
Trim Router Bit 47204.
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| Mission Style
Shaper Cutters? |
I like the idea of the Mission style router bit door making bits from Amana.
I own a 5hp Grizzly shaper, are there shaper cutters available to do Mission
style doors.
- Russ B.
Black Hawk. SD
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| Panel Profile Bit for Penn.
Secretary Desk by Lonnie Bird |
I am planning on building the desk and book case you have in FWW 155-157.
My question: what Amana router bit will give me the panel profile
used on the desk you feature. I see in the article that you use a
shaper. Is there a router bit available for this profile? Any help
would be much appreciated.
- Dan O.
Durham, NC
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| Shaper vs Routers |
I have an older Craftsman table model shaper/router with a 1/2" shaft,
and I\'m having a problem finding bits that will fit it. Can you recommend
a supplier? I won't be using the shaper
extensively, so I don't want to buy very expensive bits.
- Frank P.
Rockmart, GA
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Lonnie
replies:
Since the time that your small shaper was manufactured, the
table-mounted router has become the tool of choice for small shops. As a result,
there are just not many small, inexpensive shaper cutters available today.
However, the good news is that there are more router bit profiles available today
than ever before. And if you compare the cost of a shaper cutter to the same
profile in a router bit, you'll find that you can often purchase several router bits for the cost of one shaper cutter. I suggest that you purchase
a large router and mount it in a table.
If you compare the shaper to the router table you'll see that they operate essentially
the same way. In fact, many of the setups are the same for both machines. However,
there are some important differences, too; large shapers powerful machines and are capable of making much larger cuts than the average
router. For example, my three horsepower, 3/4" spindle shaper can shape the edge
of a raised panel in a single pass. In comparison, the largest router requires three to five passes to prevent overloading the motor.
Clearly, shapers are a great machine for use in a production shop.
However, a table-mounted router has advantages, too. As I've already mentioned,
router bits are considerably less expensive and are available in a wider variety
of profiles. And one of the biggest advantages is the router's ability to shape
small parts and shape into the tight curves often found on fine, detailed furniture.
And if you need to shape a large profile, such as that raised panel, the router
can do that too, provided that you take light cuts and several passes.
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| Picture Frame Stock |
I have a craftsman shaper and can't seem to locate shaper cutters with
a
1/2" inch bore for it. Who is making them, or small 3/4" bore
cutters with a bushing?
- Rodger
Lehighton, PA
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Lonnie
replies:
Yes, Amana Tool® has a number of 3/4" bore brazed type shaper cutters that
are provided with a 1/2" bushing for use on smaller machines. For a more
economical alternative, take a look at the Amana Tool® Profile Pro system.
This is a lightweight aluminum cutterhead which uses high speed steel knives.
The knives are available in a wide variety of profiles.
Also, Amana Tool® is continually adding new router bit and shaper cutter profiles
so check our website regularly.
View Brazed Shaper Cutters
View Profile
Pro™ Shaper
Cutters
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| Miter chop saw
is
not functioning properly. |
I have a miter chop saw and when I cut the wood shatters. at first I thought
it was a dull saw blade but then I changed the blade to a brand new
one and on the second cut the same thing happened. Am I doing something wrong or is there a part on the machine that needs replacing?
- Al
East St. Paul, MB
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Lonnie
replies:
You were wise to stop operating the machine; anytime a machine vibrates
excessively, makes a strange noise, or grabs the wood it is time to stop
the machine and determine the cause. I cannot evaluate the machine without
seeing it but here are a few things to check:
1. Saw Blade Type -- Select a saw blade that is designed specifically for miter
saws such as the Amana
Tool trim blade no. 610800 (10").
2. Make certain that you're crosscutting -- This may seem obvious, but attempting
to cut with the grain when using a miter saw can cause the saw blade to grab
the stock.
3. Reduce the fence opening -- Attach an auxiliary fence to reduce the fence
opening and provide greater support to the stock.
4. Check the workpiece -- Make certain that the workpiece is not warped. If necessary
flatten the stock first on a jointer before cutting it or select a different
piece of stock.
5. Clamp the workpiece -- Most miter saws come equipped with a clamp for securing
the stock, if your saw does not, then use a shop clamp. A clamp will hold the
work securely while cutting and it will also allow you to position your hands a safe distance from the blade.
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| Furniture Revivals From "The Great Exhibition" |
I have a miter chop saw and when I cut the wood shatters. at first I thought
it was a dull saw blade but then I changed the blade to a brand new
one and on the second cut the same thing happened. Am I doing something wrong or is there a part on the machine that needs replacing?
- Al
East St. Paul, MB
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Lonnie
replies:
Thank you for your compliments on my books; I'm glad to hear that
you're enjoying them.
High speed steel knives and insert cutterheads, such as the Amana
Tool® Profile Pro™,
are a great way to collect an assortment of shaper cutters without the expense
of brazed cutterheads. The high speed steel takes and holds a sharp edge, and
the knives are available
in a wide variety of profiles. To add a new profile
you need only purchase a pair of knives and mount them in the head. There are
even blank (unground)
knives available
which you can take to a sharpening shop to have custom ground.
When using an insert shaper cutterhead always read and follow the manufacturers
directions for assembly of the head. Older style lockedge cutterheads had a pair
of worm screws in the head which engage with serrations on one edge of the knives.
Newer cutterheads, such as the Profile
Pro™ Shaper Cutterhead, use large steel
pins in the head which engage with a pair of holes in the knives. Once the knives
are positioned in the head a gib locks them in place. And always follow the manufacturer's
recommended RPM.
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| Quilt Rack |
I
need to cut out a heart and a diamond. Is there a bit that will make
the point in the heart and points in the diamond or will I need to sand
and file to make the points sharp?
-Allen L.
Franklin, IL
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Lonnie
replies:
Router bits and shaper cutters will create a sharp outside corner.
However, because they spin as they cut they will not create a sharp inside corner.
Instead, the router bit or shaper cutter will create a radius that is equal
to the cutting diameter of the tool.
When designing and building furniture you have a couple of choices regarding
cuts made with router bits and shaper cutters. You can eliminate inside corners
from the design or you can cut into the corner as far as possible
with the bit and complete the cut with hand tools. Because I like details in
my furniture I always choose the second option.
For example, I shaped the arched panel in the photo with Amana
Tool no.54117 and a table mounted router. After shaping, I carved the corners
with the skew chisels.
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| Router Bit Nut Removal |
I bought a #55400
tongue and groove cutter. I don't know how
to remove the nut on the end of the router bit to change the configuration
from the tongue to the groove. How do I hold it without damaging
its surface? Thank you.
-Sue R.
Lawrence, KS
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Lonnie
replies:
Many of today's router bits, such as the tongue & groove
router bits and reversible
stile & rail
router bits, use a hex nut to hold cutters on the shank. By removing
the hex nut you can rearrange the cutters in various ways. To avoid damaging
the shank first secure the bit in a router. The router collet will grip
the shank without damaging it.
When rearranging the cutters it's important that they face toward the direction
of rotation (counter clockwise) as you view the router bit from the end with
the nut.
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| Shaping Stiles and Rails |
What is the best way to get a clean splinter free edge on the stile
and rails? I have a small jet shaper w/ shaper bits. I still get tear
out, I mostly use oak.
-Mark
Omaha, NE
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Lonnie
replies:
Using stile and rail cutters, such as Amana
Tool 3-Wing Stile & Rail Door Shaper Cutter Set No. SC440 is an
efficient way to make a kitchen full of cabinet doors. The "sticking" profile
is created with one cutter while the matching cope is cut on the ends of
the rails with the mating cutter.
Oak is a tough, coarse-grain wood that has a natural tendency to splinter. Try
increasing the speed of the shaper (don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended
RPM for the cutters) and reducing the feed rate. Also, because cutting the ends
of rails is end-grain work it's important to support the trailing edge with a
backup board. Finally, if you've had the tool for awhile and used it a number
of times it may be time for sharpening.
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| Most Useful Cove and Bead Bits |
Would you recommend the most useful sizes of 1/2" shank cove bits and
edge beading bits? Thanks.
-Harry
D.
Alexandria, VA
|
Lonnie
replies:
Cove and beading bits are some of the most useful that you can own. And if you combine them with an assortment of corner rounding
and ogee bits you can combine cuts to make a number of different moldings.
For example, by combining cuts from Amana
Tool Corner Rounding Router Bit with ball bearing guide Tool No. #49518 with Amana
Tool Cove Router Bit Tool No. 49118 you
can create either a drop-leaf table edge or an attractive molding.
I suggest that you begin with a number of mid-sized bits and then add profiles
as you need them. For example, Amana Tool makes corner rounding bits from 1/16" to
1-1/2" radius. Among those sizes you'll most likely find yourself using the sizes
in the 3/16" to 3/4" range most often.
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| New Yankee Workshop Bathroom Cabinet |
I recently purchased "The Shaper Book" and would like
to learn more about climb cutting. I have tried it while running stiles
and rails for door parts and did not have very good results. The wood
tends to burn and seems to make the profiles "fuzz". I'm using
cutters which are brand new. I want to prevent any blowout on the profiled
edge of the material, and I believe this will help me achieve these results.
I have a power feeder and am feeding with the direction of rotation of
the cutters. Could you please tell me what I am doing wrong and what
the fix is. The book is a fascinating reference
for any shaper owner. Thank
you for your time Lonnie.
-Bill G.
South Wales, NY
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| Shaper Door Pieces |
I recently purchased "The Shaper Book" and would like
to learn more about climb cutting. I have tried it while running stiles
and rails for door parts and did not have very good results. The wood
tends to burn and seems to make the profiles "fuzz". I'm using
cutters which are brand new. I want to prevent any blowout on the profiled
edge of the material, and I believe this will help me achieve these results.
I have a power feeder and am feeding with the direction of rotation of
the cutters. Could you please tell me what I am doing wrong and what
the fix is. The book is a fascinating reference
for any shaper owner. Thank
you for your time Lonnie.
-Bill G.
South Wales, NY
|
Lonnie
replies:
Burning, tearout, and a rough or fuzzy surface are all common routing/shaping
problems that are easily solved.
Burning is a result of too slow of a feed rate or too high of tool RPM or both.
As the tool spins each cutting surface takes a "bite". If the feed rate is too
slow the blade or bit simply rubs over a surface that was previously cut. This
creates excess friction, heat and burning. A faster feed rate and/or slower tool
RPM should help.
A rough or fuzzy surface is sometimes a sign that the moisture content of the
wood is slightly high. Try checking the moisture content with a meter. Also,
wood from the center of the tree, sometimes referred to as juvenile wood, often
does not cut as cleanly as the wood from the outer layers. Juvenile wood is easily
recognizable by the small diameter annual rings on the end of the stock.
Tearout can occur with any species of wood but it is a greater problem with hard,
coarse textured woods. Feeding the stock with the grain certainly helps but often
the grain will change directions midway down the length of the workpiece. The
key to avoiding tearout is to shape the profile using light passes. When shaping
with a router of shaper I typically shape the profile in two or more passes.
And I position the fence so that the final pass is always very light. This results
in the smoothest possible surface.
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| Pencil Post Bed |
Lonnie what size chamfer bit did you use in making the pencil post
bed in your article in Fine Woodworking? Thanks
-Henry
Kennesaw, GA
|
Lonnie
replies:
I use Amana
Tool 45° Chamfer Router Bit - Tool No. 49404.
To cut the chamfer on a pencil post bed you'll need a bit that will shape
the largest portion of the post. The standard post size that I use is 2-1/2" square
tapering to 1" at the top. To determine the size of the chamfer bitneeded
I draw an octagon using the largest post dimension.
A jig with a built-in taper holds the top of the post the correct height off
of the router table. As the jig and post are pushed across the table thepost
is gradually lowered to expose the entire corner to the bit. To learn how to
construct the jig see my article in Fine Woodworking #184
View Illustration of Chamfer Cut on
a Pencil Post Bed
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| Various arts and
crafts pieces |
First, thanks
for your time and the info I have gotten over the last few years from
you and your columns/stories in magazines.
My question is: How do I do a roundover on an edge that is not 90 degrees?
I once made a guitar amp for a friend and it had a angled face at the top of
the front. I wanted to roundover all the edges but couldn't on the slanted parts. Is the only solution to do it by hand? Thanks again, Craig
-Craig
Chickaloon, AK
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| Shaper Cutters for Doors & Sash |
Regarding the issue of counter- bored cutters for use with stub spindles,
are these cutters typically special-order? I don't see any such cutters
in any manufacturers' catalogs.
-David C.
Somerset, NJ
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Lonnie
replies:
Stub spindles and counter bored cutters are used together
to create a cope when a true mortise-and-tenon joint is
desired. The stub spindle is internally threaded which,
along with the counter bored cutterhead, allows long tenons
to pass unobstructed when cutting the cope.
Amana added a line of stub spindle router
bits.
View Illustration
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| Table Saw Outfeed Table |
I need to cut a T-slot, 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep. The T-slot at the
bottom needs to be 7/8" wide with an 1/8" wide groove for the miter gauge
bar which is shaped like a Tee. I'm having a heck of a time finding
a router bit that size. Any ideas?
-Steven C.
Marion, IA
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